From House To Home
ISSUE: October 2006
Mario To Go
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Celebrity chef and beclogged character-about-town, Mario Batali, has a lot to say on the subject of food. Since we buttonholed him on his way out of town to Rome, Italy, we had to settle for some quirky little morsels that will likely leave you hungry for more.
You studied not only culinary arts but Spanish theater. What is the connection, in your mind, between theater and food? Food can be very theatrical, but theater does not have to involve food.
Have any of your creations had a starring role on stage? Arguably all of them in New York City where other spheres are as closely followed as the theater world.
Speaking of star power, what's the most versatile vegetable? Fennel.
What do you like best about your work? Pure freedom to create for the hungriest city in the world.
What's the best thing about doing Iron Chef? Working with Anne and Mark.
Any spectacular flops? Things you tried that just didn't work? It all works. Whether it sells is another story.
What were some of your salient influences along the way? Everything I have ever consciously seen or heard or tasted.
What is the mistake most cooks make? They do not brown things long enough.
Are there three rules to always bear in mind when cooking/entertaining? Keep it easy, do not try something the first time with guests coming over, and prep as much in advance as possible.
What's your favorite dish? Anything anyone else makes.
What do you most often cook at home. Breakfast for my kids.
Which ingredient most inspires you? Artichokes.
What is the predominant color in your dishes? Red.
What is your favorite shape, and why? Almost everything round is delish.
Where do you find ideas and inspiration? In everything I read, hear, and see; but mostly in a good farmers' market.
Is there a region of Italy you prefer? The Amalfi Coast and Bologna.
Name your favorite view. Coming back from LaGuardia (Airport), looking at the Manhattan skyline.
Which are your favorite cities? Bologna, Paris, Seattle, New York, Madrid, and Northport, Michigan.
Do you have a favorite hotel and restaurant in Italy? Il Pellicano in Maremma. Ambasciata in Quistello.
How would you define "good taste?" It is the level of acceptance of one's personal tastes.
Please name your favorites among the following:
Fruit? Blackberries.
Vegetable? Artichoke.
Dining scene in a movie? Opening scene in Eat Drink Man Woman, or the egg yolk mouth-to-mouth in Tanpopo.
Pasta shape? Fusilli bucati.
Fish? Rockfish.
Animal? Giraffe.
Artists (in any genre)? Francis Bacon, Wayne Thiebaud, Russell Chatham, Kandinsky, Michael Stipe, Caravaggio, Jim White, Fellini.
Sculpture? Guggenheim Bilbao.
Painting? Kandinsky's Blue Rider.
In your opinion, do people with a sensitive palate tend to have good taste in other areas? Not at all.
What was your favorite meal as a kid? Mock chicken legs and banana chocolate chip bars. (Editor's note: Parents of chicken-finger loyalists, despair not.)
Was either of your parents a good cook? Both great cooks.
If condemned, whom would you choose to prepare your last meal? The slowest cook in the world.
Do people recognize you on the street? If so, what do they most often ask you? All the time. They ask about how to get on Molto Mario.
Whom would you like to have dinner with? My family.
What is the significance of the orange clogs? Comfort and style.
What's your idea of the perfect birthday cake? The one my wife, Susi, makes every year.
Monster Shrimp with Orange Chili Glaze
Serves 6
- 1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice (about 2 oranges)
- 1/2 cup fresh cilantro
- 1 tablespoon Asian red chili paste
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves
- 3 scallions, green parts only, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1 chipotle chile in adobo sauce
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 2 pounds extra-large shrimp (16 to 20-count size), shelled and deveined
Put the orange juice, cilantro, chili paste, olive oil, garlic, scallion, chipotle, and salt in a blender or food processor fitted with the metal blade and blend until smooth.
Place the shrimp in a resealable freezer bag and pour the orange juice mixture over the shrimp. Chill in a refrigerator or ice-filled cooler for 2 to 3 hours, but no longer.
Remove the shrimp from the marinade and discard the marinade.
Grill the shrimp over medium-high heat, until they are opaque in the centers, 3 to 4 minutes per side.
Remove from heat and serve immediately--though they still rock at room temperature.
Texas-style Smoked Babyback Ribs
Serves 4
- 2 cups wood chips, preferably hickory or oak, or 6 to 8 hickory or other hardwood chunks, for grilling.
- 1/4 cup paprika
- 3 tablespoons packed, brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons salt
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 2 racks babyback ribs
- 2 cups Mario's Kick-ass Barbecue Sauce (see page 127 of Mario Tailgates NASCAR Style)
One hour before grilling, soak the wood chips in enough water to cover.
In a small bowl, mix together the paprika, brown sugar, salt, garlic powder, and cumin. Place the racks on a clean work surface and rub the garlic mixture into both sides of the ribs. Let rest for 2 hours at room temperature, or wrap in plastic and keep in a refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
Prepare coals for a hot fire. While the coals are heating, drain the wood chips. Use 12-inch square sheets of aluminum foil to make 3 packages of chips. Poke some holes in the top of each package to release the smoke during cooking.
Arrange the hot coals on one side of the grate in a compact pile. Place a 9-by-12-inch aluminum pan on the opposite side of the grate and add 1 inch of water. Place a packet of chips directly on the coals.
Arrange the racks of ribs on the grill rack above the drip pan. Cover the grill, with the vent positioned over the ribs.
Smoke the ribs for about 2 hours, adding more coals and another packet of chips about every 30 minutes. After the first hour, swap the position of the racks of ribs so the one closer to the coals is on the outside edge.
Transfer the racks to a cutting board and cut them into individual ribs. Serve with some of Mario's Kick-*oops* Barbecue Sauce (page 127 of Mario Tailgates NASCAR Style).
Grilled Pizzas
Makes two 10-inch pizzas
For the dough (skip this if you bought the dough)
- 1 packet dry active yeast
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 1-1/2 cups warm water
- 3-3/4 cups unbleached flour, plus 1/2 cup to work with
- 2 tablespoons salt
- 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 4 tablespoons to work with
For the topping
- 1/4 pound mozzarella cheese, grated
- 2 cups tomato sauce
- 1/4 pound ham, sliced thin and pulled into pieces
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Parmesan cheese (optional)
In a large bowl, combine the yeast, honey, and water, and stir until well mixed. Let the mixture rest until foamy, about 3 minutes.
Add the flour, salt and 4 tablespoons of olive oil, and stir until well-mixed and the dough starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Turn out onto a floured, clean work surface and knead until firm, 4 to 5 minutes. Form the dough into a ball.
Coat the sides of a large, clean mixing bowl with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place the ball of dough in the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place, shielded from direct sunlight, until the dough doubles in size, about 1 hour.
Punch the dough down with your fist so it deflates, and divide it in half. Roll each half into a ball, and place on a 11-by-17-inch greased baking sheet. Brush each dough ball with a little oil and cover carefully with plastic wrap. Keep cold in a refrigerator overnight.
To make pizzas, prepare enough coals for a medium-hot fire, or set a gas grill to medium-high. Arrange the coals so one side of the grill is hot and one side medium-hot or, if using a gas grill, preheat one side hot and the other medium.
Dust the work surface with flour and place one of the dough balls in the center. Press with your fingertips to create a thin, 10-inch round flat crust. Pick up the dough and place on the hot side of the grill and let it cook for 1 minute without touching it.
Using tongs, loosen the dough from the grill and slide it to the warm side. Continue cooking until golden brown on the bottom and the top is just set and dryish looking, about 2 minutes more. Flip the crust with the tongs and put the uncooked side on the hot side of the grill, and cook 1 minute more.
Slide the dough to the warm side of the grill, and place half of the grated mozzarella on it. Spoon dollops of tomato sauce over and around the cheese, reserving half of the tomato sauce.
Sprinkle the ham, oregano, and grated cheese over the sauce.
Cover the grill and cook 2-3 minutes more, until the cheese is melted and the sauce is bubbling. Remove the cooked pizza to a plate or board, cut into wedges, and serve.
Repeat with remaining ball of dough and ingredients to make the second pizza.
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