{"id":19319,"date":"2020-07-30T16:38:00","date_gmt":"2020-07-30T20:38:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.fromhousetohome.com\/?p=19319"},"modified":"2022-09-15T19:53:34","modified_gmt":"2022-09-15T23:53:34","slug":"hydrangeas-not-blooming","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fromhousetohome.com\/garden\/hydrangeas-not-blooming\/","title":{"rendered":"Why Aren’t My Hydrangeas Blooming?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Having trouble with your hydrangeas not blooming? Find out how to fix the problems so that you can grow these beautiful flowers in your garden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I love Hydrangeas!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Those big beautiful flowers always brighten up a summer garden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Except when they decide NOT to bloom for some reason. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then they’re just a big disappointment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fortunately, there are a few common reasons why Hydrangeas don’t bloom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And most of them are pretty easy to fix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So if your Hydrangea isn’t blooming, keep reading to find out why.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What type of Hydrangea do you have?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The first thing to know is that there are many different types of Hydrangeas<\/a>, and they have different blooming requirements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So before you can figure out why your plant isn’t blooming, you need to know what kind of Hydrangea you have.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here are the most common garden varieties:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea macrophylla – Big Leaf Hydrangea, Mophead Hydrangea, Lacecap Hydrangea<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mophead<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Big Leaf Hydrangea is the variety that most people think of when they hear the word Hydrangea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the name implies, they have fairly large leaves that are rounded to a point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The mophead variety is the one with the flowers that form large round balls (in the picture above).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Lacecap<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The lacecap variety is the one with flatter flower heads that look more delicate and lace-like.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea serrata – Mountain Hydrangea<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hydrangea<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The mountain Hydrangea looks like a smaller version of the lacecap Hydrangea macrophylla. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

And has all the same growing characteristics as its larger cousin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea paniculata – Panicle Hydrangea<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hydrangea<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The flowers on Hydrangea paniculata are more oblong than the ones on the big leaf hydrangea, but they are equally as showy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They tend to start out as a white or greenish color and then turn to a shade of pink.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea aborescens – Smooth Hydrangea, Annabelle Hydrangea<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hydrangea<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea aborescens is a native species of Hydrangea that grows wild across much of the United States.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Traditionally, it was mostly available with large white balls of flowers, but recently some varieties with pink flowers have become more popular.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea quercifolia – Oakleaf Hydrangea<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"'Snow
<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Oakleaf Hydrangea is another native species.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It has oblong (rather than round) balls of flowers that are usually white.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The tell-tale sign of the oakleaf variety is the shape of the leaves, which (as you may have guessed) are in the shape of oak leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea petiolaris – Climbing Hydrangea<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Climbing<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Climbing Hydrangea is a vine with beautiful, lacy white or pink blooms that takes some time to get going, but is a great addition to the garden once it gets going.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’re still not sure which kind you have, read our guide on the different types of Hydrangeas and how to identify them<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now you can look at the reasons why your particular plant has decided not to bloom. And skip over the ones that don’t apply to your variety.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1 | Pruning At The Wrong Time<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Hydrangea
\u00a9olyapon \/ Adobe Stock<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: All Hydrangeas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I think this is one of the most common causes of Hydrangeas that aren’t blooming.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The buds were accidentally cut off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The tricky part is that different varieties of Hydrangeas should be pruned at different times.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Blue<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea petiolaris and Hydrangea quercifolia<\/strong> all bloom on old wood (ie. last year’s stems), and should not be pruned much at all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can cut the ends off the branches, up to the first set of 2 leaves, if you want to dead head the plants immediately after blooming.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But cutting any more than that is probably removing some of next year’s blooms. And that includes cutting blooms for your dining room table flower arrangement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The one exception is the reblooming “Endless Summer” series of Hydrangea macrophylla which blooms on both old and new wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So technically, you can prune them and still get some flowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, you will get more flowers if you prune them as if they were old wood bloomers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hydrangea<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea aborescens<\/strong> bloom on new wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That means they can be safely pruned in the early spring before the branches start to grow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And H. aborescens<\/strong> often does best if you cut it right down to the ground.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course, in all cases, pruning to remove dead branches is always a good practice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Learn more about pruning Hydrangeas HERE<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2 | The Plant Is Too Young<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Mature<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: H. paniculata, H. aborescens, H. petiolaris<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Both H. paniculata and H. aborescens<\/strong> require a couple of years to get established before they will start to produce mass blooms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

H. petiolaris<\/strong> takes even longer than that to get established…give it about 5 years to really start putting on a show.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3 | Late Frost<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Hydrangea<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: H. macrophylla, H. quercifolia<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Both H. macrophylla and H. quercifolia have buds that are very sensitive to late spring frosts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So if you live in an area that can get a cold spell after it has been warm for a while (like I do in Upstate South Carolina), be prepared to cover them if necessary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting them in a protected area by the house can also help.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

4 | Too Much Fertilizer<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Lacecap<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: All Hydrangeas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This one sounds a little strange.  Fertilizer is supposed to make plants grow better, right?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With Hydrangeas, too much fertilizer actually encourages lots of leaves and fewer flowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you want to use fertilizer, one application of a well-balanced slow-release fertilizer in the spring should be enough.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

5 | The Soil Is Too Dry<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Hydrangea
Hydrangea macrophylla with Hibiscus<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: All Hydrangeas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

All Hydrangeas dislike dry conditions, and won’t grow (or bloom) very well if they aren’t watered regularly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Adding a layer of mulch will also help to get the soil moist.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you are looking for a variety that is more likely to grow successfully in dry conditions, try H. paniculata<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once they get established, they actually tolerate dry conditions fairly well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

6 | Too Many Deer<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Deer<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: All Hydrangeas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apparently, deer love Hydrangeas as much as I do!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you live in an area with deer, they may be doing some unneeded pruning for you…and preventing your Hydrangeas from blooming.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This can be a difficult problem to solve (as anyone who has tried to stop deer from feasting on their garden probably knows).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Building a 6-foot fence around my yard was the only way I stopped them from coming into my yard. (You can find more ways to keep deer out of your yard HERE<\/a>.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

7 | You’re Too Impatient<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Hydrangea<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: H. paniculata<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

H. paniculata<\/strong> blooms later in the season than the other hydrangeas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So don’t be too impatient waiting to see its blooms…it may just be taking its time getting started.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

8 | Not Enough Light<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Hydrangea<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Applies To: All Hydrangeas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The general rule of thumb for most Hydrangeas is that they require about 4 hours of sun per day, and they prefer to get it in the morning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But it also depends on where you live.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The further North you go, the more sun they can stand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The further South, the more shade they like.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The one exception is H. paniculata<\/strong> which blooms much better everywhere in full sun (at least 6 hours per day).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This standard variety of the Pee Gee Hydrangea beside my deck gets sun almost all day long and it is always covered in blooms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Solving this problem usually requires moving the plant to a better location…it is much easier to make sure that it is planted in the right place to begin with…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The great thing about most of these problems is that Hydrangeas are very forgiving plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So even if you don’t get any flowers this year, all you have to do is correct the issue and you’ll be rewarded with big, beautiful blooms for years to come!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Other gardening tips you might like<\/h2>\n\n\n\n